
Tajkistan
February
12th 02 - Arctic Region and Satellite, Moon, Planet travel overland
by car for seventeen hours to Khorog in the high Pamirs in the region
of Badakshan.
Across the southern part of Tajikistan they travel, along the river
Panch, also called Amu Darya, and in olden times the Oxus, Afghanistan
on the other side of the river, on a rugged, stony and bone crushing
cliff clinging road through breathtakingly beautiful and serene
country side.
Hard to understand why this area has been so strife ridden over
so many years. In the calm winter light with already a green sheen
of new green grass appearing here and there it seems the most peaceful
place on earth, far from the madding crowd. Small Afghan villages
on the other side of the river hugging the mountainside, neat, clean
and tidy, free of modern litter and also having no electricity and
other modern facilities.
The age old transoxiana path is winding its way up and down along
the river, much travelled by man and donkeys.
Khorog February 13th 02 - Arctic Region and Satellite, Moon,
Planet have now found themselves a temporary place in our little
house on the sunny side of the deep valley at an altitude of 2400m.
They are
![[ Khorog ]](../images_general/khorog.jpg) |
awaiting
spring and the melting of the snows and thawing of the earth so
we can climb the mountain behind our house and find a soft and undisturbed
spot for one of the vases. The yellow of the vases are
spreading
a wonderful light in our little room.
From a "brief explanation of the benefits and qualities of the earthly
deity and auspicious treasure vases" by HH Dilgo Khyentse I read:
"If the vase is hidden in the centre of a house, that dwelling will
gain auspicious good fortune, wealth and virtue".
Therefore I shall now put the vases in the cupboard in the centre
room of the house which is called the Pamiri room. The house belongs
to a Pamiri family who try to earn a living by renting it out, while
they themselves are living a humble side building at the back, so
I hope they will benefit from the vases being in their house.
The Pamiri room is a traditional room built of stones, a wooden
ceiling supported by five pillars, a symbolic number for the Ishmailies,
with a centre hole open to the sky with a layered framework of carved
wood for a stovepipe as originally there would be a wood
burning
stove in the middle of the room
Around the side of the room are raised platforms which serve as
furniture as all sitting and living in the room takes place on these
platforms. There is no stove at the moment so the room is too cold
for winter use. It is a very harmonious room and the vases will
be in a good place until they can move to their place in the ground,
in the conventional sense, when spring will be.
![[ Ishkashim ]](../images_general/tajik.jpg) |
March
2-9th - The vase Arctic again travelled in my bag overland back
to Dushanbe and up the Garm valley. Much unrest and fighting has
taken place in the Garm valley thought it would be a good place
for the vase. The snow was still too deep and the ground too hard
so Arctic did not find a place but travelled back again the same
way. By now this vase had done very many hours on the road.
March 16th - Walked up above the mountainside behind our
house. Bright sunshine, still lots of snow on the mountains opposite.
Find a potential spot for the vase. Not easy to dig in the ground
as many stones. Took a picture from the view.
March 23rd - Across the high plateau of the Pamirs I reached
Osh in Kyrgyztan for a day's visit. In the sprawling bazaar I bought
a metal kitchen utensil and a pike which I could use for digging.
In Khorog I had not been able to find anything useful for the purpose
of putting the vases in the ground which is very hard and very stony.
April 12th New Moon
Khorog:
latitude 37 degrees and 30 minutes North, longitude 71 degrees and
31 minutes East
There
was an earthquake in the morning. The day was mild and sunny and
in the afternoon I climbed the slope of the mountain behind our
house and buried the vase in the spot I had found some weeks earlier.
Between 2-3 pm Arctic vase was buried about 3 feet in the ground
at the edge of an overhang of rocks on the slope of a mountain on
the north side of the river Gunt, running through Khorog, where
it joins the river Panch. Accompanied with a deep-felt wish for
peace and happiness for all sentient beings.
Photos
taken four weeks before the burial: - Khorog view west: view
from the burial site towards the west. The confluence of the river
Gunt with the river Panch, Afghanistan on the other side of the
river.
Khorog view south: view from the burial site towards the south,
Afghanistan on the right hand side of the river Panch.
Khorog site: view of the mountainside on the day of burial,
the vase place is in the middle of the photo. By the time I had
descended the sun had disappeared and a group of boys arrived so
could not take more photos.
April 27th Full Moon Ishkashim: latitude 36 degrees and 40 minutes
North, longitude 71 degrees, 36 minutes East
The possibility for a ride to Ishkashim, 110 km south of Khorog,
where the river Panch turns east through the Wakan corridor comes
my way. The drive is three hours and I have three hours before we
must return to Khorog.
On a previous visit I had climbed a mountain on the east side of
the river and knew it would be possible to find a good place for
the vase. I climbed and between 1-2 pm Satellite, Spacecraft, Moon,
or Planet ( space 10) was buried one foot down on the slope
of a mountain with a view to the south and the entrance to the Wakan
corridor and west across the river to Afghanistan. Again accompanied
with the wish for peace and happiness for all sentient beings.
Photos:
![[ Ishkashim ]](../images_general/ishkashim.jpg) |
Ishkashim view south: view from where the vase was buried, towards
the south along the Panch river where it turns east entering the
Wakan corridor, Afghanistan on the west side.
Ishkashim view west: view of the mountain, the vase is buried in
the middle of the photo. The stone writing on the lower left part
of the mountain says: Welcome Hozir Imam, which was made in honour
of the visit of the spiritual head of the Ishmailies, the Aga Khan
Ishkashim site: close up of the burial site, middle of the photo.
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